If any of you have been to Oaxaca, and done even the slightest bit of street food sampling, you're probably familiar with the tlayuda. If so, skip this next paragraph...

Tlayuda, here in Oaxaca, refers to a large, toasted corn tortilla (as differentiated from the blanda, which is soft). It also refers to a tasty treat made with such a tortilla: something like a pizza, with various toppings but, always including asiento (a type of lard), beans (prepared in a sauce-like consistency), and cheese, either quesillo or queso fresco. Usually, these tlayudas will come with one of Oaxaca's traditional meats: tasajo (a cut of beef), cecina (a spicy pork cut), or chorizo (spicy sausage), although you can get a meatless one too.

As is the case with all Mexican antojitos, each person prepares their tlayuda differently. Probably the most famous tlayudas are at Tlayudas Libres, in Oaxaca's centro. The Libres establishment is featured in Lonely Planet, and they now have various locations throughout the city. Now, let me be clear: they make a fine tlayuda at Libres but, personally, I prefer the Cenaduría Lupita, better known to locals as Las Tlayudas del Atoyac.

At Libres, the focus is on the topping: your tlayuda comes with a mountain of cheese, shredded cabbage, brimming over with beans and the sauce of your choice and, of course, plenty of your favorite meat. The result is a filling meal but, the tortilla is almost lost in the explosion of tastes. At Atoyac, the tlayuda -- the tortilla itself -- is the focus: toasted to perfection and coated with just the right amount of beans and cheese. Instead of sauce, slices of deliciously spicy chiles de agua are provided and you can add as many or as few as you like. They also bring you chepiche, a flavorful herb, and radishes, as optional garnish. In addition to the "traditional" meats I mentioned above, you can also get falda de costilla: delicious pork ribs.

Another advantage of the Tlayudas del Atoyac: they open at 3 p.m., whereas Libres doesn't open until 9:30 p.m. Whereas Oaxacans generally eat tlayudas for dinner, or as a late-night snack, we know our foreign students are often hungry enough for a filling dinner long before 9:30! The big disadvantage of Atoyac is its location: prohibitively far from the centro for visitors without their own transportation. Taxi is the best bet (any taxi driver will know "las tlayudas del Atoyac").